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  #1  
Unread 05-06-07, 07:26 PM
Ernie Martin's Avatar
Ernie Martin Ernie Martin is offline
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Voltage Crucial for Cowl Flaps? Tire Balancing

Questions on two issues:

1. My front cowl flap motor takes twice as long as the rear. When I tried to show my A&P, it had failed. Wouldn't budge. Weird, it was working on the flight the prior day. So I started an engine (to see if 28V, rather than 24V, helped) and sure enough, it works like a charm -- slow but good. This seem right? Is it a signal that's about to die? Any other thoughts?

2. Recently had my main tires changed (didn't want to show up at Lucaya with bald jobbies). My A&P was gone, so someone else did it. He aligned the blue dot on each tire with the tube valve stem. Is that right? The blue dot is the lighter point of the tire, where the valve stem should go for balance reasons?

Thanks,
Ernie
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  #2  
Unread 05-06-07, 08:19 PM
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WebMaster WebMaster is offline
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Ernie,
The cowl flap motor sounds like the brushes are bad. Frequently, cleaning them helps. If that doesn't do it, the brushes will have to be replaced, but I do not have any idea where you could get them.
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  #3  
Unread 05-07-07, 05:32 AM
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Re: Voltage Crucial for Cowl Flaps? Tire Balancing

Quote:
Originally posted by Ernie Martin

Recently had my main tires changed (didn't want to show up at Lucaya with bald jobbies). My A&P was gone, so someone else did it. He aligned the blue dot on each tire with the tube valve stem. Is that right? The blue dot is the lighter point of the tire, where the valve stem should go for balance reasons?
It should be a red dot on the tire, not blue. It should be aligned with either the valve stem or a yellow stripe on the tube. If there is no stripe, then use the stem.

Did this person that changed the tire have a mechanics certificate? Make sure that he signs the logbook to release the aircraft for service.
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  #4  
Unread 05-07-07, 08:05 AM
Pete Somers Pete Somers is offline
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Looks like the motor needs a service and the gearbox needs regreasing. I think you did this once before on your front cowl flap motor?

Pete
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  #5  
Unread 05-08-07, 06:55 PM
Ed Kalis Ed Kalis is offline
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cowl motor

I purchased a new motor last year for the front had it checked at a electric shop before I installed it. The motor will run on a 9volt transistor radio battery or a 12 volt car battery or the 24 volt system it's used on, just speeds up on the higher volts. check to see if you have oil leek near motor, they have a way of asorbing oil in the motor and shorting out the brushes. Also the wires from the silencer to the motor will short out inside itself( the outer part of the wire is grounded and the inside is single coated wire and if the plastic coat cracks you will have a short. This is normaly what is found when the circut is poped out or fuse is blowed.
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  #6  
Unread 05-08-07, 07:28 PM
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Ernie Martin Ernie Martin is offline
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Thanks for all the suggestions. Will follow up on it.

Ernie
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  #7  
Unread 05-16-07, 08:51 AM
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Dale Campbell Dale Campbell is offline
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Cowl Motor

I rebuilt both of my cowl motors. The cowl motor ran when you started engine because you added vibration which made the brushes touch commutator, not because you add a couple of volts. I made a set of brushes from computer motors I had in stock. I do not think you can find them anywhere. They are usually just gummed up by oil. Just need a good cleaning. Have fun when you disassemble. They are fun to get back together.
Dale
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