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#1
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Metallurgist checking in...
Abrasive removal methods do have the prospect of excessive heat input. I would worry more about flap sanding wheels and the like than the blasting methods but abrasive is abrasive. A skilled blaster using something gentle like plastic media is probably best. Back when I worked for an Aerospace OEM we used plastic media blast and it was very gentle. Gentle enough that on simple geometry parts you could sometimes remove just the topcoat and most of the primer without penetrating the cadmium plating (which is softer than butter). Chemical stripping is the best, no doubt. But the EPA will scream bloody murder over what you need to use. Plastic media blast. Not glass bead. Certainly not aluminum oxide. Plastic media. 
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#2
01-22-13, 12:26 AM
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New Findings From more complete inspection of Landing Gear after gea Up landing
Today myself and an AI started work on 34S not only to begin putting her back together after we pulled the back engine and tailbooms but also to begin her Annual. He was looking things over near the landing gear actuator and noticed one of the shear pins attached next to the universal joints had sheared off. A look inside the hole that the sheared pin left showed that the shaft inside the collar had rotated appx. half of the hole diameter. A look at the other side showed that one of the two shear pins in the inboard side had also sheared off and shifted appx. half of the hole diameter. The remaining shear pins on on each side (two at each point inboard and outboard) were still intact in the universal joint but with further inspection and removal I would tend to believe they are sheared as well but just remained in the hole vs falling out.
The question to you all is could this have caused my problem in the beginning vs the power pack. A scenario I am thinking of has the pins finally shearing the last time the gear were cycled into the up position. Once that occurred and the gear lever was moved to the down position the gear simply flopped out of the wheel well and dangled there. When we tried to pump them down and the hand pump was so stiff, that was because the power pack was also trying to put them down as well but could not due to the shear pins be sheared. So any thoughts as to this scenario? I guess one way to check is to get it up on stands and then hook up to a mule and cycle the gear handle. IF I can see the inner portion of the gear actuator spinning in there with no movement of the gear, then it would be safe to assume that the shear pins caused the failure. IF the actuator does not move, then it is back to the power pack for trouble shooting. Again, any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. KD
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#3
01-22-13, 05:15 PM
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Can you post some photos to help get us oriented.
Thanks, Gord
__________________
Gord C-FTES
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#5
01-23-13, 12:19 PM
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Need Pictures of rear engine.
I have the engine re-installed in the back but my mechanic is at a standstill with some of the wiring and tubing. He did not remove the engine so he needs pictures of a turbo rear engine so he can match up everything correctly. Any pictures of a rear engine turbo with the cowlings off. Thanks in advance for any help you can be for this. KD
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