New Engine

Todd Gessel · #1 10-06-09, 10:21 PM

I'm putting in a new re manufactured rear engine from Air Power. While I'm at it, it's getting new hoses, new vac pump, new Lord mounts, F-M enterprises oil filter adapter, new drain plug, neoprene valve cover gaskets, new baffling, new prop and governor. The exhaust system and engine mount has been visually inspected. This airplane has about 800 total hours on it.

Does anyone have any advice or comment about anything else that should be considered, inspected or done while I have the rear engine out? Is there any potential SID inspections or tests I could or should do with the engine out?

If anyone is interested, I gave $29,625.00 for the engine, $1,012.00 for freight (round trip), $12,100.00 core deposit, $695.92 for (4) Lord mounts, and $354.64 for the vacuum pump.

Thanks, I really appreciate everyone's participation in this great resource for Skymaster enthusiast.

Ernie Martin · #2 10-06-09, 10:38 PM

There is a draft SID to remove the tubular engine mount and do a magnetic particle or penetrant inspection of all welds. Whether it will survive scrutiny and become a published SID remains to be seen, but inspecting the tubular mount is always a good idea and dye penetrant inspection of the welds should not cost much.

Ernie

hharney · #3 10-06-09, 11:10 PM

Big money Todd, is this aircraft new to you? Where did it come from? Wow only 800 hours TT?

I used the F&M and they seem to be working great. Can't think of anything else right now.

Todd Gessel · #4 10-06-09, 11:54 PM

Thanks Ernie for the info on the dye penetrant inspection, I was unaware of that test.

Herb,
This airplane has been in my family for many years, in storage in a hanger. I know 800 hours is pretty incredible. It's got to be one of the lower time Skymasters around. After I earned my multi-engine rating, I started flying it in January ('09). It's an awesome aircraft. Unfortunately, I had a main gear door actuator fail and result in a main gear up/rear prop strike. Thus, the new engine. See my posts from July. Fortunately, the insurance company is covering part of the engine cost.

Guy Paris · #5 10-07-09, 11:00 PM

Todd,

Are you getting the heavy case upgrade,? Looking at my old paper work (05/06/04) it was called:
CD1-TCM Core upgrade $1000.00. guy paris....

Todd Gessel · #6 10-08-09, 02:00 AM

As I understand it, I am getting the heavy case, the VAR crank, and the new style starter. This is just off the top of my head. I don't have the paperwork and notes with me right now for all the details. I am happy to share any of this info in more detail if you're interested. Also, if there are any pictures anyone would like to see of the process, I'm happy to post them too.

JeffAxel · #7 10-08-09, 08:55 AM

Todd,
if it were me, I would pass on the new starter and stick with the old style, seems the old one has caused less problems with the starter adapter. When you get the new engine, just swap the starters and keep the one you have. Just my .02

Todd Gessel · #8 10-08-09, 11:09 AM

Jeff,
Thanks. I have been soliciting opinions on the new starters and have been getting mixed reviews. I still have time to decide which starter to use. Anybody else willing to throw their two cents in?

Guy Paris · #9 10-08-09, 11:38 AM

Todd,

I in my humble opinion would find a core for the alternator and KEEP a almost new old stock one. guy paris

Todd Gessel · #10 10-08-09, 01:34 PM

Thanks Guy, that's a good idea. I've done that on the vacuum pump, but I didn't think of the alternator.

Dale Campbell · #11 10-09-09, 10:14 AM

I need a starter for my front engine. I have a 1978H model. Would the starter be the same as your rear engine starter. What year 337 do you have. Dale Campbell

Ernie Martin · #12 10-09-09, 11:21 AM

Dale, for the benefit of all readers, if you click on Todd's name, you can then see his profile, which shows that he has a '77 337G.

Ernie

Todd Gessel · #13 10-09-09, 07:03 PM

Hey Dale, as Ernie pointed out, mine is a '77 G. I think it's the same starter, but the old starter has to go back to the factory with the engine core. Thanks for checking. Todd

Dale Campbell · #14 10-12-09, 12:28 PM

Hi Todd,
If you are interested in doing the trade, give me a price and I can return my starter to you to put back on your engine before shipping it in. My problem is the starter works fine when engine is warm. When engine is cold the starter motor turns to compression point and stops.
You have to hit starter switch 4 or 5 times to get it to rotate. My A/P changed starter relay and checked wiring and changed other things and said the starter motor is just weak. So he said buy a new starter motor. I never have the problem with the other engine. Dale

Dave Underwood · #15 10-13-09, 07:24 AM

Dale, I was having the same problem with my front engine starter on my G. Removing it, cleaning it up and replacing the brushes etc. fixed the problem, all done by my A&P.