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  #1  
Unread 07-01-09, 10:24 PM
rmorris rmorris is offline
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sealant

My mechanic says he thinks he can fabricate the metal plates relatively inexpensively, so looking like that might be the deal.

On sealants, can different folks tell me what they used as far as sealants when replacing thier windshields and pros cons (ie do you wish you chose something different or very happy). My plane is a Turbo and I will be taking it into the low flight levels, so want to make sure I have a sealant that will hold up.

rmorris@agsi.us
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Last edited by rmorris : 03-12-11 at 12:03 PM.
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  #2  
Unread 07-01-09, 10:39 PM
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hharney hharney is offline
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Here is what you want to use to seal in the windshield. This is good stuff and will do the job. Once the windshield is in you can then tape off the window to airframe (about 3/8") and use this same stuff to create a calk bead. Looks perfect. This ProSeal is what Cirrus uses to install all windows (beech too)

Take a look in the SM, you can change the rivets to screws on the cuff the holds the windshield in place. Makes it a lot easier to install. I have some photos if you need.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ps890.php
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  #3  
Unread 07-01-09, 10:47 PM
rmorris rmorris is offline
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sealant

How much of this stuff did you buy for your job (the pint or quart).

So you used this for the fill in the large cracks stuff (my mechanic had recommended the 3m 'chalk') as well as the bead on the outside? Is that what Cirrus does? How long does it take to cure?

What p/n screws did you use? I saw something in the service manual about using screws for a re-install, but thought rivets would look better. Yes, I would love to see pics.
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Last edited by rmorris : 03-12-11 at 12:03 PM.
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  #4  
Unread 07-01-09, 10:56 PM
rmorris rmorris is offline
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pro-seal

herb, your link to aircraft spruce showed the pro-seal fuel tank sealant...I did a little googling and found this link:
http://ableaero.com/PPG/Windshield_and_Canopy.html

is this more likely the stuff used by Cirrus & beech ? It looks like pro-seal stuff, but built for windshields?
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Last edited by rmorris : 03-12-11 at 12:03 PM.
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  #5  
Unread 07-02-09, 06:04 AM
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A tip on this. Start EARLY in the day. It's a big job. Allow lots of time. Make sure it's warm, but not to warm, because once it sets up, you are done.
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Unread 07-02-09, 10:51 AM
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You can control the set time by how the ProSeal is mixed. I would still use the felt around the windshield as original but use lots of ProSeal to bond everything. It is really messy but it is very doable. Remember, do not use any type of solvent to clean the plastic window. The only petroleum base cleaner that can be used safely is kerosene. The ProSeal is really pretty easy to use once you understand it. Initially it appears to be a mess but with some practice it really isn't bad. Cure times are typically 8-16 hours but in cold weather like I had it was like 2 days. Yes it is fuel tank sealant. For just the windshield a pint is adequate.

Photos below are showing the "chalking" per say after the window is installed. This is the finish step.
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  #7  
Unread 07-02-09, 12:33 PM
rmorris rmorris is offline
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finshing step?

Herb,
First, thanks for sharing both your experience and the pics. Happy if others would jump on with theirs as well - so we have a nice repository on this thread.

You said the pics are the finishing step. Let me summarize where I think they are, please correct where I'm wrong. you've done the following in the two pics with no black goop:
- removed old windshield
- cleaned the area well (did you jsut use mineral spirits for that piece?)
- put the felt tape that came with window around the edges, being careful not to stretch it
- pushed the window into place (under upper screw positions, which were taken out during the removal process)
- taped off the area with the blue tape leaving about an inch on both sides, then extending out your tape line with masking tape (why did you use two different tapes, and what is the blue one)

Then it looks like in the black goop pic that you applied the Pro-seal fuel tank sealant in the crack all the way around the windshield.


My assumption is that you then let it cure for a couple of days and then applied the metal strips with screws (in my case still thinking rivets) - or did you apply the metal strips right after putting the windshield in place and let it cure in the final format (ie squeezed some by the metal strip)?

Any pics of the are in front with the screws versus rivets?
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Last edited by rmorris : 03-12-11 at 12:03 PM.
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