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#1
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What is YOUR starting technique?
Turbo engines have slightly lower compression. I beleive 7:5 to 1 vs 8.5
So may be easier than most to start? Anyway, a bazillion years ago I was shown a 100% always works starting regime, hot cold, or in between. Front first, because of shorter battery leads = less loss. Then rear. STEPS A. Props and mixture full forward. B. Throttles closed. Don't touch them C. Boost pump on high. D. Slowly open front throttle, then back again. Maybe 4 secs round trip. My shadin goes up to 18 gph or so at the top. This puts a pressurized slug of fuel into the entire injection system. E. While hitting starter, slowly open throttle until engine fires. F. She fires, presto and voila! --- What is going on, I believe, is as the throttle slowly opens, it ALWAYS finds the right mixture of air and fuel to ignite whatever conditions may be. I have used this for 25+ years, hot, cold, after fueling, weekends and holidays. What is your preferred starting technique?
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David Wartofsky Potomac Airfield 10300 Glen Way Fort Washington, MD 20744 |
#2
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starting technique
I use the same technique with a slight variation of my own that I have used for over 50 years and I have used it on lots of different airplanes (that have fuel injection).
Burt |
#3
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Starting Non Turbo
I use a 50 year plus method also. Front engine first, battery cable length shorter. I put the mixture and the throttle full forward for a COLD start. I hit the boost pump for a count of 4 to 5. I reduce the throttle to full idle. Hit the starter, engine fires on a few cylinders first allowing the non oiled innards to get some oil. When the oil pressure comes up I increase to 1000 RPM. On a WARM start I do mixture forward, throttle idle. I hit the boost pump for 2-3 count and hit the starter. Starts right up. After both starts I lean the mixture until the engine runs smooth. I do my run up with the lean mixture, only advancing the mixture for takeoff. My plugs last a long time, never fouls and very little carbon when I clean them. When I FLOOD the engine I put the mixture in idle cutoff and the throttle full and crank until it catches. Then mixture first to full forward, followed by throttle idle. QUICKLY This technique doesn't address the lack of oil but if the engine is warm there is enough oil to prevent damage anyway.
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#4
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My starting point is to do exactly what the POH stipulates. And in my 1974 T337G, I've never had to deviate from it, whether starting hot in Phoenix after a refueling, or just above freezing on a summer morning in the Canadian rockies.
Other airplanes I've owned -- not so easy, with hot starts being the worst. I can't speak for anyone else, but in my 337 -- never a problem. Note that my mechanic has been extra-careful in spark timing. Dan
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1974 T337G |
#5
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I used to fly a G-Baron and it was a bitch to start hot on a hot Florida ramp in the summer. Those IO-550s in those tight cowls, with ac compressors on them got HOT fast. They would vapor lock too. Proper technique was critical.
My P337H has been much easier to deal with in similar situations. The big Piper singles are notorious for hot-start issues. I've more than once had to go over and help a pilot with proper hot-start technique. Its surprising how many have no clue. Last edited by mshac : 12-14-23 at 03:43 PM. |